Mossy Hooded Garter Shawl Knitting Free Pattern
Mossy Hooded Garter Shawl Knitting Free Pattern
Introduction
The Mossy Hooded Garter Shawl is a cozy, beginner-friendly project for anyone who wants a big, squishy wrap without complicated stitchwork. It is knitted entirely in garter stitch, so every row is knit, and the only shaping is a simple increase at each edge. The olive body with ochre stripes near the wide top edge gives it a woodland, fairycore feel, and the integrated hood adds warmth and a little magic. Two ochre tassels at the hood corners finish it off, and the super bulky yarn makes it soft, quick, and wonderfully drapey.
Materials Needed
- Yarn: Super bulky weight yarn (approx. 6–8 wpi), wool or wool blend. Color A (olive): 300 yards. Color B (ochre): 200 yards.
- Needle: 10 mm (US 15) circular needle, 80 cm long (used to knit flat).
- Notions: Stitch markers (optional), tapestry needle, scissors, a ruler or gauge square.
- Finished size: Width across top: 60 inches (152 cm); depth at center: 30 inches (76 cm); hood depth: 12 inches (30 cm).
Abbreviations
- st(s): stitch(es)
- K: knit
- Kfb: knit into the front and back of the same stitch (makes one extra stitch)
- K2tog: knit two stitches together (makes one fewer stitch)
- RS: right side (the front of the work)
- WS: wrong side (the back of the work)
- CO: cast on
- Rep: repeat
- Cont: continue
Gauge
8 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in garter stitch. Knit a small swatch, measure a 4-inch section, and adjust your needle size if your stitch count is off.
Tips Before You Start
- Garter stitch is stretchy, so measure your gauge swatch gently without pulling it.
- Keep your edge increases loose so the long top edge stays soft and does not pucker.
- Count your stitches at the end of every right-side row; the increase rows are easy to lose track of.
- When picking up the hood stitches, use the center 20 inches of the top edge and space the 40 stitches evenly.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Shawl Body (worked flat, back and forth)
With A, CO 3 sts.
Row 1: Kfb, k1, kfb (5 sts).
Row 2: K all sts (5 sts).
Row 3: Kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (7 sts).
Rows 4–120: Rep Row 3 every RS row, working WS rows as knit rows, until 123 sts, ending with a WS row (123 sts).
Change to B and work 4 rows even in garter st (123 sts).
Change to A and work 4 rows even (123 sts).
Change to B and work 4 rows even (123 sts).
Change to A and work 4 rows even (123 sts).
Bind off loosely.
Hood
With A, pick up and knit 40 sts evenly along the center 20 inches of the top edge of the shawl (40 sts).
Rows 1–12: K all sts (40 sts).
Row 13: K19, k2tog, k19 (39 sts).
Row 14: K all sts (39 sts).
Row 15: K18, k2tog, k18 (37 sts).
Row 16: K all sts (37 sts).
Rows 17–28: Cont dec 1 st each side of center every other row (working even knit rows between decrease rows) until 25 sts remain (25 sts).
Bind off loosely.
Tassels (make 2)
With B, cut 10 strands of yarn, each 12 inches long. Fold the bundle in half and attach to each top corner of the hood.
Assembly and Finishing
Weave in all ends on the wrong side, working them through a few stitches so they stay secure. Block lightly to the finished measurements: width across top 60 inches, depth at center 30 inches, hood depth 12 inches. Pin the shawl flat, mist with water, and let it dry completely before removing the pins.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Try a contrast color for the tassels to make the hood corners pop.
- Add one more stripe band for a longer, bolder color-blocked top edge.
- Use a smooth cotton-blend super bulky yarn for a lighter shawl with crisper stitch definition.
