Left-Right Split Color Tunisian Crochet Vest Free Pattern

Introduction

This split colorblock vest is a wonderfully forgiving first Tunisian crochet garment: it's built from three simple rectangles, so there's no shaping, no increasing, and no complicated stitch work to worry about. The front is worked as two vertical halves — terracotta on the wearer's left, mustard on the right — joined by a single crochet seam down the center, while the back is one full-width terracotta panel. Worked in Tunisian knit stitch, the fabric comes out smooth, dense, and pleasantly stretchy, with a neat knitted look on the right side. The result is a boxy, modern, unisex vest that looks just as good over a tee as it does layered in cooler weather, and it's a great way to use two generous skeins of DK merino in colors you love.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK weight (Category 3) merino wool, approximately 800 (900, 1000, 1100) yards total — 400 (450, 500, 550) yards terracotta (A) and 400 (450, 500, 550) yards mustard (B).
• Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8) Tunisian crochet hook with cable, long enough to hold 120 loops.
• Notions: Stitch markers, a yarn needle, and a spare hook or cord stopper for holding loops.
• Finished size: To fit chest 34-36 (38-40, 42-44, 46-48) inches. Finished chest circumference 38 (42, 46, 50) inches; length 24 (25, 26, 27) inches.

Abbreviations

• ch — chain: make a loop of yarn and pull it through the loop on your hook.
• yo — yarn over: wrap the working yarn over your hook.
• st(s) — stitch(es).
• TKS — Tunisian knit stitch: with the yarn held behind the work, insert the hook between the two vertical bars of the next stitch and pull up a loop.
• sc — single crochet: insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.
• rep — repeat.

Gauge

16 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Tunisian knit stitch. Work a small swatch in TKS, block it lightly, and measure a 4-inch section in the middle — if you have more stitches than 16, go up a hook size; if fewer, go down.

Tips Before You Start

• Count your loops. The forward pass loop count and the return pass stitch count are the same number — check it before you begin the return pass so your panels stay perfectly rectangular.
• Keep the first and last stitch loose. Tunisian edges tend to curl and tighten; a relaxed edge stitch makes seaming and edging much easier.
• Use a long cable. The back panel holds up to 120 loops, so make sure your cable comfortably fits them all without stretching the fabric.
• Match your two front panels. Work both front panels to the same row count, not just the same measurement, so the center seam lines up evenly.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Notes: The vest is worked as two front panels and one back panel, then seamed. Each panel is worked sideways in Tunisian knit stitch (TKS). Front panels are half width each; the back panel is full width. All panels are rectangular. Edging is worked in single crochet around the armholes, neck, and bottom.

Front Left Panel (A)

Row 1: Ch 49 (53, 57, 61). Forward pass: insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull up a loop, rep across (48 (52, 56, 60) loops on hook). Return pass: yo, draw through 1 loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops] rep across (48 (52, 56, 60) sts).

Row 2: TKS across (48 (52, 56, 60) sts).

Rows 3 to end: Rep Row 2 until piece measures 12 (12.5, 13, 13.5) inches from beginning. Fasten off.

Front Right Panel (B)

Work same as Front Left Panel using B: ch 49 (53, 57, 61), work Row 1 as above (48 (52, 56, 60) sts), then rep Row 2 until piece measures 12 (12.5, 13, 13.5) inches. Fasten off.

Back Panel (A)

Row 1: Ch 97 (105, 113, 121). Forward pass: insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, yo, pull up a loop, rep across (96 (104, 112, 120) loops on hook). Return pass: yo, draw through 1 loop, [yo, draw through 2 loops] rep across (96 (104, 112, 120) sts).

Row 2: TKS across (96 (104, 112, 120) sts).

Rows 3 to end: Rep Row 2 until piece measures 24 (25, 26, 27) inches from beginning. Fasten off.

Center Front Seam

Place Front Left and Front Right panels side by side with right sides facing up, aligning inner edges. With A, sc evenly along the inner edges of both panels to join them, working from bottom to top. Fasten off.

Armhole Edging (make 2)

R1: With A, join yarn at underarm, sc evenly around armhole. Fasten off.

R2: With A, join yarn, sc in each sc around. Fasten off.

Neck Edging

R1: With B, join yarn at center front neck, sc evenly around neck opening.

R2: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off.

Bottom Edging

R1: With B, join yarn at side seam, sc evenly around bottom edge.

R2: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off.

Assembly and Finishing

Place the Back Panel and the joined Front with right sides together. Sew the side seams from the bottom edge up, leaving the top 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5) inches open for armholes. Sew the shoulder seams, joining the top edges of the front panels to the back panel and leaving a center neck opening of 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5) inches. Weave in all ends. Block lightly to the finished measurements: mist the vest, pat it flat, and let it dry fully before wearing.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Swap the palette: Try navy and cream, or sage and rust, for a different colorblock look — just keep one color for the back and armhole edging and the other for the neck and bottom edging.
• Make it longer: Add rows to all three panels before seaming for a tunic-length vest; add roughly 14 rows per 4 inches of extra length.
• Try a different edging: Replace the two-row sc edging with a round of slip stitch or a simple crab stitch for a crisper, more textured finish.